Twist Fingerless Glove Pattern

Twist Fingerless Glove Pattern

(UPDATE: Edited 5-5-2013 I’ve had some feedback and questions about this pattern so I’ve edited it to include a lot of images and descriptions. You can click on any picture for an enlarged view also. Hopefully this will all be very clear now. The written pattern by itself (for those that don’t need the pictures, and for ease of reading) is at the very bottom of this post. I’ve had one too many requests for a video instruction for rows 2 and 3 of the body of the glove. Just so you know, making a video is not as easy as it would seem to be. That said, welcome to amateur hour with my camera’s finicky focus and don’t mind that I was still talking at the end of the video and forgive when I get off camera. Enjoy the sounds of happy kids in the background and feel free to skip through to the point you’re looking for, because it’s long. Hope this helps! I love that so many people have used this pattern and love it and come back to it. Thanks!*

At last I’m blogging one of my very favorite and most popular glove patterns! Thanks for your patience in waiting for this and enjoy! If you’re interested in ordering a pair of these check out my store. I’m happy to do custom color requests!

pattern

Twist Fingerless Glove

For this pattern you’ll want to be (or get) familiar with:

blo=back loop only
fpdc=front post double crochet

I used Caron Country Merino wool blend yarn and a size I and size J crochet hook for the dark grey pair. I reused a second hand yarn for the green pair but I’m guessing it was about a 2-ply sport weight yarn and I used a size G and size H crochet hook with it. You can use any weight yarn with a slightly large hook (and optionally the larger hook too for the top of the glove) for the yarn you’re using. The larger crochet hooks help keep it stretchy. Gauge isn’t important because you’ll make the gloves to fit.You will need a few measurements or you can just measure the gloves against your hand and arm as you go. The second method actually works best for me… plus I try them on at each step. Then you can get the right tightness/stretchiness feel. Keep in mind these gloves are very stretchy so you can make them a little on the small side, just don’t make them too big.

Cuff- The cuff is a basic 1:1 ribbing.
Ch (with your smaller hook) until you reach the approx. length for the first measurement plus 1 more chain. (I chained 19)
Row 1: sc blo in 2nd ch from hook and each ch accross, ch 1, turn (18 total sc, for me)

Row 2: sc blo in each, ch 1, turn

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2. How many rows you make will be determined by the second and third measurements shown above. It should fit around your wrist without gapping but be able to stretch to around the top of your hand (so you can get it on.) I had 24 rows.

You will end up with a square/rectangle shaped piece. ch 1, turn. For the body you will be working along the side of the cuff.

Body-

Row 1: Working in the side of the ribbed cuff, sc across (see pic below). How many sc you need is determined by your measurements but it must be a factor of 5. You want it to fit nicely around your wrist (measurement #2) but be able to stretch over the top of your hand so you can get it on (measurement #3.) I had 25 sc total. Fold in half to begin working in the round and Join with sl st to first sc of this row (see 2nd pic below.)

Row 2: ch 3, make beginning twist (dc in sc behind where you just joined-see pictures below), sk 1, 3dc in next (shell)

*Make twist (see picture below- sk 2, dc, dc in 2nd skipped stitch), sk 1, 3dc in next* Repeat around, (5 twists and 5 shells total)

Row 3: beginning twist stitch (see picture below- join with sl st around starting dc from row 2, ch 3, fpdc around the ch 3 of below row),

shell into the space before the next shell (see pictures below)

IMG_2055

insert hook into space between twist and shell below

*twist in next twist (keeping a tight tension, sk the shell and sk next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around skipped dc- see pictures below) shell in space before next shell* repeat around, join with sl st around the post of the first dc. In other words, for this row and each row after, you will be twisting in each twist and working a shell in the space before each shell.

Row 4-? (row 6 for me): Repeat row 3 until you get to the row where you’d like to work your thumb hole. Use measurement #4 to help determine this. You may want to switch to your larger hook 1-2 rows before your thumb hole row.

Thumb hole row (row 7 for me): work a beginning twist stitch (like in row 3 and on: join with sl st around dc from row below, ch 3, fpdc around ch 3 of below row) dc in space before next shell, ch 6, sk the shell and the next twist, dc in space before next shell, *twist in next twist, shell in space before next shell* repeat around, join with sl st around the post of the first dc

Row after thumb hole row (row 8 for me): ch 3, fpdc around ch 3 of below row, shell in space before dc, sk 3, dc, dc in 2nd skipped ch, sk 1, shell in next ch, *twist in next twist, shell in next shell* repeat around, join with sl st around the post of the first dc

Next row and until top (Row 9-11 for me): Repeat row 3, finish off, and sew the cuff up. Oh, and don’t forget to make another one for the other hand!

pattern

Twist Fingerless Gloves-text only

Cuff- The cuff is a basic 1:1 ribbing.

Ch (with your smaller hook) until you reach the approx. length from measurement #1 plus 1 more chain. (I chained 19)

Row 1: sc blo in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1, turn (18 total sc, for me)

Row 2: sc blo in each, ch 1, turn

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2. How many rows you make will be determined by measurement #2 and #3. It should fit around your wrist without gapping but be able to stretch to around the top of your hand (so you can get it on.) I had 24 rows.
You will end up with a square/rectangle shaped piece. ch 1, turn. For the body you will be working along the side of the cuff.

Body-

Row 1: Working in the side of the ribbed cuff, sc across. How many sc you need is determined by your measurements but it must be a factor of 5. You want it to fit nicely around your wrist but be able to stretch over the top of your hand so you can get it on. I had 25 sc total. Fold in half to begin working in the round and Join with sl st to first sc of this row.

Row 2: ch 3, make beginning twist (dc in sc behind where you just joined-see pictures below), sk 1, 3dc in next (shell) *Make twist (sk 2, dc, dc in 2nd skipped stitch), sk 1, 3dc in next* Repeat around, (5 twists and 5 shells total)

Row 3: work a beginning twist stitch (join with sl st around dc from the beginning of row 2, ch 3, fpdc around the ch 3 of below row), shell into the space before the next shell, *twist in next twist (keeping a tight tension, sk the shell and sk next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around skipped dc- see pictures below) shell in space before next shell* repeat around, join with sl st around the post of the first dc. In other words, for this row and each row after, you will be twisting in each twist and working a shell in the space before each shell.

Row 4-? (row 6 for me): Repeat row 3 until you get to the row where you’d like to work your thumb hole. You may want to switch to your larger hook 1-2 rows before your thumb hole row.

Thumb hole row (row 7 for me): work a beginning twist stitch (like in row 3 and on: join with sl st around dc from row below, ch 3, fpdc around ch 3 of below row) dc in space before next shell, ch 6, sk the shell and the next twist, dc in space before next shell, *twist in next twist, shell in space before next shell* repeat around, join with sl st around the post of the first dc

Row after thumb hole row (row 8 for me): ch 3, fpdc around ch 3 of below row, shell in space before dc, sk 3, dc, dc in 2nd skipped ch, sk 1, shell in next ch, *twist in next twist, shell in next shell* repeat around, join with sl st around the post of the first dc

Next row and until top (Row 9-11 for me): Repeat row 3, finish off, and sew the cuff up. Oh, and don’t forget to make another one for the other hand!

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